Zero2 Microrobot

Assembly Instructions
                  ZERO 2 MICROROBOT KIT

                  ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS                      CSF

When you open the kit, you should check first that the following 
are present:

  1) ZERO 2 Instruction Manual
  2) A cassette of software for your computer
  3) An Interface cable (umbilical) with plug attached
  4) The Robot base and shell containing the pelvis (frame)
  5) Bag containing metal parts :           Qty.
       a) Pen Slide              Z2-4         1
       b) Axle Clamp             Z2-5         1
       c) Axle                   Z2-6         1
       d) Pen Clips              Z2-30        2
       e) Axle Spring Rubbers    Z2-28        2
  6) Bag containing plastic parts:
       a) Wheels                 Z2-8         2
       b) Rubber tyres           Z2-9         2
       c) Slide Pillars          Z2-7         2
       d) Wheel Spacing Washers  Z2-27        2
       e) Orange PCB Pillars     Z2-14        2
       f) Toe Cap assembly parts Z2-11:
          short orange spacer, screw fixture, cap
       g) Pen Lift Cam           Z2-13        1
       Pen Clip Spacers                       3
  7) 3 stepper motors:
       Short lead  - Pen Motor                1
       Medium lead - L.H. Motor  Z2-12        1
       Long lead   - R.H. Motor               1
  8) Fasteners
     Screws: Qty.   Dims ./Type (All threads are Metric)
     Z2-16   3    M3 x 8 mm  (2 + 1 spare for pen clip adjustment)
     Z2-15  10    M3 x 5 mm  (General)
     Z2-17  12    M3 Hex Nuts
     Z2-19   2    M4 x 16 mm Panhead (Slide Pillars to Base)
     Z2-20   1    M4 x 15 mm Countersink (Toe Pillar)
     Z2-18   2    M4 x 40 mm Phillips Pan (PCB to Pelvis)
     Z2-25   4    Star Nuts (2 to secure wheel, 2 spare)
     Z2-22   4    M3 x 8 mm Nylon Screws  (Shell to Base)
     Z2-32   1    M4   Steel washer       (Toe assembly)
                  M4 Cage Nut (Can be fitted in top of pelvis for
                               superstructure/add - ons) 
     Z2-23   4    M3 Hex nuts nylon
  9) Z2-26   1    Cable Support (Halo)  

Having checked the Parts List, you can now start to assemble the 
robot. Some parts are pre-assembled, so a small screwdriver is the 
only tool you will need:
     The loudspeaker is bonded to the base
     The motor leads are ready soldered
     The PCB (Printed Circuit Board) is fully assembled

                 ROBOT ASSEMBLY
Start by attaching the toe to the base. The top of the base is the 
side carrying the loudspeaker. Next to the loudspeaker is the slot 
for the line follower. The toe mounting hole is directly behind it. 
Turn the base over and run the M4 x 15 mm Countersink screw through 
the screw fixture, short orange spacer and the base itself. Holding 
this assembly in place, turn the base over, put on the M4 steel washer 
and nut. It is not necessary to use pliers or spanners on this nut. 
As on the remainder of the robot, finger pressure on the nut and firm 
but careful use of the screwdriver are usually sufficient to assure 
sturdy assembly and avoid damage.

Take the white plastic toecap and snap home onto screw fixture now on 
underside of base.

Now assemble the pelvis section. The gold IGR sticker is on the LEFT 
side of the pelvis. Peel the paper from the two foam rubber suspension 
blocks supplied and stick them to the bottom members of the pelvis as 
in Fig. 2, so that the plastic 'lid' is facing upwards. Now locate the 
axle through the lower of the two holes in the side of the pelvis and 
bolt (M3 x 5 mm screws) the axle to the inside of the front face of the 
of the pelvis using the blue aluminium axle clamp. The groove in the 
clamp should be towards the base, its two mounting holes towards the 
top, underneath the large hole for the pen lift cam.

For the sake of neatness, screwheads should be on the outside of the 
pelvis and nuts on the inside, but the choice is yours.

Ensure that the axle is neither stiff nor very loose in its clamp. If 
so, drawing and running performance may be adversely affected.

Attach pen lift cam to motor (short lead). The nylon cam is an 
interference fit on the shaft and the boss on the cam should face 
towards the motor. Whilst pushing the cam onto the shaft, support 
its other end on a firm work surface. When the motor shaft,is 
unsupported, there should be about 1 mm clearance between the cam 
boss and bearing boss on the motor.

Mount the pen motor complete with cam onto the pelvis, the motor 
connector facing downwards (M3 x 5 mm screws).

Mount the left hand drive motor (Medium lead) onto the pelvis 
(M3 x 5 mm screws). Note that its connector should face downwards 
and the lead be threaded out under the front edge of the pelvis. 
The motor bearing boss locates snugly in the pelvis side. Hold the 
motor in position, bolt the rear end of the motor mounting to the 
pelvis (M3 x 5 mm screws), finger tight only. Now bolt the front end 
of the mounting to the pelvis. This can be a tight squeeze, but here's 
a tip: Place the nut on the end of your little finger, tip the side of 
the pelvis up towards you and locate the nut under the screwhole. Pop 
in the screw and tighten. Now tighten the rear screw fully.

Repeat the above process for the right hand side motor, noting that 
its connector faces UPWARDS.

Bolt the assembled pelvis to the base with two M3 x 8 mm screws in 
the holes immediately behind the rubber suspension blocks.

* Attach the pen clips to the pen slide as shown in Fig.3 (M3 x 5 mm 
screws) The top of the slide is the end with the cut off corners. 
Holding the slide by the top clip,take the slide to the pelvis and 
insert the slide pillars (stepped end down) through the top of the 
frame, the slide and locate them in holes at the base of the pelvis. 
Holding this assembly in position, turn the robot over and screw the 
pillars to the base using the two M4 x 16 mm panhead screws provided. 
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THESE SCREWS. Screw in until the head of the screw 
touches the base, then no more than 1/8th of a turn.
[* For pen centring, include 2 "Pen Clip Spacers" between top clip and 
slide - See. Fig.3]

Snap the tyres onto the wheels. Make sure they are not twisted in 
their grooves. Put a clear plastic spacing washer over each axle stub 
and push the wheels on afterwards. These should rotate easily on their 
axles. Push down slightly on each wheel to ease the tyre under the motor 
boss and push wheel onto spacing washer.

At this point check that an equal amount of axle is protruding beyond 
the wheel hub on each side of the of the machine. Push on the wheel 
retainers (star nuts) so that they just touch the wheel hub and allow 
the wheel to rotate under light finger pressure. ( The star nuts are a 
semi - permanent fixture. If they must be removed at any time, use a 
sharp nose pair of pliers to bend out one or two of the 'leaves' and 
let it drop off the axle. Harm to the axle will result in damage to 
the wheel bearing on removal unless the score marks on the axle are 
first removed. )

PCB Assembly
Take the two M4 x 40 mm Phillips panhead screws and the long orange 
plastic pillars and pass the screws through the two large holes at 
the top of the PCB (umbilical socket end).

Push the orange pillars over the screws and carefully locate the line 
follower LED/transistor array at the bottom of the board in the slot 
provided in the base. Now bolt the two mounting screws to the pelvis 
via the holes at top right and left of the pen motor.

Attach the loudspeaker wires to the two pins provided at the rear of 
the PCB. Attach the pen motor connector to the lower of the two pin 
headers on the left hand side of the board at rear. The left hand 
motor connects to the top header on this side. The right hand motor 
connects to the only header provided at the rear on the right hand 
side of the board. As a rule, latched cable connectors should be 
fitted with the latch facing outwards, but no damage can occur if 
the connector is fitted the wrong way round. However, the motors 
would go backwards instead of forwards and vice-versa if connected

Locate the shell on the top of the two slide pillars protruding at 
the top of the pelvis and attach by four nylon M3 x 8 mm screws and 
nuts around the edge of the base.

Now you should turn to your ZERO 2 Instruction Manual where 
directions are given for connecting up the robot to your computer.

If as a kit builder you do not buy the interface and/or power supply 
separately, but make/supply them yourself, make sure that the power 
supply delivers a smoothed offload output of 15 - 20V DC and has a 
capacity of not less than 1000 mA. The ZERO 2 Power Supply is rated 
at 1400 mA to allow for add-ons you may buy or make yourself. If and 
when you do up grade, it is a worthwhile acquisition.

Circuit Board Layout and Diagrams are included at the back of the 
ZER02 instruction manual.

If you are short of parts or in need of one or two replacement 
fasteners for example, please contact your supplier.

Figure 1

Figure 2 - Location of Axle spring-rubbers Figure 3 - Location of Pen Clip spacers under top clip

Zero2 Interface For annotated diagram see diagram on main Zero2 page